The Comprehensive History of Carles: The "True Alaska of the Philippines"A deep dive into the northernmost town of Iloilo Province -- its people, its seas, its politics, and its rise as a tourism and fishing powerhouse

The Comprehensive History of Carles: The "True Alaska of the Philippines"

A deep dive into the northernmost town of Iloilo Province -- its people, its seas, its politics, and its rise as a tourism and fishing powerhouse

I. Ancient Roots and Pre-Colonial Origins

Long before Spanish galleons sailed the Visayan Sea, the islands under what is now the Municipality of Carles were already home to an ancient civilization. Archaeological excavations at Gigantes Norte and Gigantes Sur unearthed burial jars, ceremonial artifacts, and wooden coffins dating back to approximately 200 BC, during what archaeologists call the Metal Age. These artifacts, carbon-dated by the National Museum of the Philippines, were found in the sandy soils of Barangay Asluman, revealing a people who were skilled artisans, evident in their intricately crafted jewelry and coffins.

The very name "Gigantes" speaks to the awe of the earliest settlers. According to local lore documented on Discover Carles, the first inhabitants discovered a massive mortuary box carved from rock, measuring eight feet in length and containing colossal human remains. In the Danao-danao cave on Gigantes Sur, more such boxes were found, leading settlers to believe they had stumbled upon the cemetery of giants. The islands' primitive name was "Sabuluag" or "Salauag," named after a tree species endemic to the area, before the Spanish renamed them "Islas de Gigantes."

II. The Founding of Carles: From Punta Bulakawe to Pueblo

The Arrival of Francisco Arriola (1846)

The recorded history of Carles begins in 1846, when Francisco Arriola -- believed to be the son of a Datu from Jolo -- founded a settlement at Punta Bulakawe (named after "bolo," a species of bamboo that grew abundantly along the shoreline). According to detailed accounts from a local history blog, Arriola organized early settlers consisting of fishermen, hunters, and stranded traders from shipwrecks who had been making seasonal stops along the coast. On October 15, 1850, Arriola and the settlers celebrated their first Thanksgiving Day, and he was chosen as the first Teniente del Barrio.

By 1855, the growing settlement had relocated from Punta Bulakawe to a flat lowland area teeming with "badiang" plants (a plant characterized by large leaves), and the settlement was thus renamed Barrio Badiang. Successive waves of settlers arrived from Aklan and Antique, and more barrios sprang up: Bancal, Dayhagan, Tarong, Cabilao, Cawayan, Tupaz, Binuluangan, Granada, San Fernando, Tinigban, and Bito-on.

The Birth of a Municipality (1862)

In January 1860, nine Badiang leaders led by Arriola traveled to Capiz to petition the provincial government to elevate their barrio into a municipality. The petition was flatly denied. Undeterred, the group made the longer journey to Iloilo City, where they petitioned Governor Jose Maria Carles y Dominguez. The governor approved the petition and recommended executive proclamation by the Spanish Governor General in Manila.

On July 1, 1862, Barrio Badiang was inaugurated as a new pueblo, with Alejandro Buaya serving as its first Gobernadorcillo. Out of gratitude, the residents petitioned to rename the town "Carles" in honor of the governor who had championed their cause. Notably, the new pueblo initially held extended jurisdiction over neighboring Balasan, Estancia, and Batad -- highlighting just how significant the settlement had become (PeoPlaid).

By 1892, under the Maura Law, Pueblo de Carles was redesignated as Municipio de Carles, and the first elected Municipal Captain was Luceno Golingan.

III. The American Period and the "Ghost Town" Years

Demotion and Exile (1904-1919)

The American colonial period brought a devastating blow to Carles. On January 1, 1904, the Municipio de Carles was demoted from a municipality to a mere barrio of Balasan. According to Wikipedia, this disheartened many Carlesenos, who abandoned their homes and migrated to other towns and provinces. For 16 years, Carles effectively became a "ghost town."

The Carles Separation Movement (1920)

But among those who stayed were fierce and determined souls. Led by Casimiro Andrada, together with nearly 20 other patriots including Luceno Golingan, Tiburcio Betita, and Juana Golingan Villanueva, the "Carles Separation Movement" campaigned relentlessly for the town's restoration. Their persistence paid off -- on January 1, 1920, Carles was finally restored to its municipal status. Federico A. Ramos was appointed as the first Municipal President. It was during the later incumbency of Municipal President Enrico Ilanga (1934-1944) that the title was changed from "Municipal President" to "Municipal Mayor," a title that continues to this day.

IV. Local Community and Cultural Identity

A Tapestry of Barrios

Carles today is composed of 33 barangays, 18 of which are spread across 14 islands and minor islets. Each barrio carries a name rooted in the natural environment or local lore. Binuluangan, for instance, got its name from "buluang" (meaning "breach"), because the alluvial action of two streams separated a piece of land from the mainland. Cawayan was named after "kawayan" (bamboo). Nalumsan means "a place where many unknown persons drowned," a grim reference to drowning incidents in the body of water dividing Balasan and Carles (all about Carles Iloilo blog).

Language and Ethnic Identity

The Carlesenos primarily speak Hiligaynon (Ilonggo), with some influence from Capisnon due to the town's geographic proximity to Capiz Province. Tagalog and English are also spoken, particularly in government and education contexts.

The Pangisda Festival

The town's identity is inseparable from the sea. The annual Pangisda Festival, celebrated every second week of October, is a Hiligaynon term meaning "fishing." According to Iloilo blogger She Mae Gomez, the festival pays tribute to the fishermen who brave strong waves, endure searing heat and cold winds to provide for their families and community. It is a celebration of heritage, livelihood, and community spirit, featuring street dancing, rituals of blessing the fishing fleet, and the ancient art of net-making. Barangay Asluman on Gigantes Norte also holds its own Scallop Festival, honoring the bivalve that has become synonymous with the Gigantes Islands.

Resilience After Typhoon Haiyan (2013)

On November 8, 2013, Super Typhoon Haiyan (locally known as Yolanda) tore through Carles, one of the hardest-hit municipalities in Iloilo. Buildings were destroyed and more than 1,200 people were displaced. The fishing fleet was decimated, livelihoods were wiped out, and the community was brought to its knees. Yet the spirit of the Carlesenos prevailed. With support from national agencies, international NGOs, and sheer community grit, Carles rebuilt -- stronger and more determined. This experience also led to improved disaster preparedness and the construction of more resilient structures in coastal barangays.

V. The Economic Revolution: From Subsistence to the "True Alaska of the Philippines"

An Economy Built on the Sea

Carles is classified as a 1st municipal income class municipality, with a population of 74,177 (2024 census) and total revenue of PHP 287.5 million (2022). The economy is anchored in fishing and agriculture, with the sea providing the dominant source of livelihood. According to the Carles Municipal Profile, about 70% of households are dependent on commercial and municipal fishing, shell diving, and fisheries-related trade.

The agricultural produce of the town includes rice, corn, sugar, cattle, and poultry, but it is the marine sector that defines Carles economically. Other cottage industries include bakeries, shell craft, and wood furniture. The town's poverty incidence has declined dramatically from 71.82% in 2000 to 35.86% in 2021, a testament to the economic transformation driven by fishing and, increasingly, tourism.

The Bancal Fish Port

Barangay Bancal is the commercial heart of Carles. The Bancal Fish Port serves as the main fish-landing port in the municipality, where catches from Iloilo, other Panay provinces, Masbate, and Romblon are unloaded daily. The Department of Agriculture invested PHP 29.4 million to modernize the port and transform Northern Iloilo's fish landing infrastructure into a major hub.

Tourism as Economic Engine

Tourism has become a fast-growing pillar of the local economy. Many residents are now employed in small inns, restaurants, and as tour guides and boat operators. The Iloilo Provincial Government has backed the "MoRProGRes ILOILO, More in Carles" action plan, which aims to boost eco-cultural tourism, generate income and investment, protect natural resources, and empower local communities. The plan specifically targets a 30% increase in tourist arrivals to the islands.

VI. The Fishing Evolution: From Bamboo Rafts to Marine Stewardship

Traditional Fishing Roots

Fishing in Carles stretches back centuries. The earliest settlers were seasonal fishermen drawn to the rich grounds of the Visayan Sea. Traditional methods included hook-and-line fishing, bamboo fish traps, and small "banca" (outrigger) boats. For generations, fishing was a subsistence activity -- families caught just enough to eat and trade in local markets.

The Rise of Commercial Fishing

The 20th century brought a dramatic shift. As motorized "pumpboats" replaced paddle-driven bancas, fishermen could venture farther into the Visayan Sea. Carles' water territory lies at the heart of the Visayan Sea triangle, where the islands of Gigantes are located. As part of the broader Coral Triangle -- the most biologically diverse marine region on earth -- these waters contain some of the most productive fishing grounds in the Philippines. The imaginary triangle extends from Iloilo, Negros, Cebu, Samar, and Masbate, forming part of the larger Sulu-Sulawesi Triangle.

Commercial species harvested include mackerel, barracuda, sardines, shad, pompano, grouper, squid, cuttlefish, shrimp, prawns, shells, and seaweed. Carles earned the moniker the "True Alaska of the Philippines" for the sheer abundance and variety of its marine resources.

The Scallop Story

Perhaps nothing epitomizes Carles' fishing evolution more than the scallop industry on Gigantes Islands. According to research published by the Philippine Journal of Natural Sciences, Gigantes is recognized for its abundant bivalve fishery, particularly scallops and spiny oysters. Compressor diving for scallops and oysters alone accounted for approximately 8,473.5 metric tons of estimated annual catch -- roughly half of the entire anticipated yearly harvest. The Daily Guardian reported that UP Visayas' Institute of Fish Processing Technology trained local fisherfolk in scallop value-addition and good manufacturing practices, creating processed products like scallop balls, nuggets, empanada, and lumpia to increase income.

Marine Conservation and Closed Seasons

The abundance has not come without cost. Overfishing, the use of destructive methods like compressor diving and trawling, and the lack of regulation led to declining fish stocks by the late 20th century. In response, the municipality designated 8,646 hectares around Gigantes Islands as a Unified Marine Protected Area (MPA). The national government also imposes an annual Visayan Sea Closed Season (typically November 15 to February 15), banning the harvest of sardines, mackerels, and herrings to allow stocks to recover. The Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR) has also distributed bottom-set gillnets to Carles fishers as replacements for illegal municipal trawl gears, marking a shift toward sustainable practices.

VII. Tourism: From Hidden Gem to Western Visayas Crown Jewel

Islas de Gigantes: The Sleeping Giant Awakens

The Islas de Gigantes (Islands of the Giants) have emerged as one of Western Visayas' premier tourist destinations. This island chain, accessible via a one-hour boat ride from Bancal Port, features stunning limestone forests, hidden lagoons, white-sand beaches, and rich marine biodiversity. Key attractions include:

   • Cabugao Gamay Island -- A tiny, picture-perfect island with a powdery white sandbar, now one of the most photographed spots in the Visayas.

   • Tangke Saltwater Lagoon -- A natural "swimming pool" enclosed by towering karst rock formations on Gigantes Sur. The water level rises and falls with the tide, creating a magical experience during high tide.

   • Bantigue Sandbar -- A stunning stretch of sand visible during low tide between two islets.

   • Pawikan Cave and Bakwitan Cave -- Caves that served as wartime shelters and are now popular exploration sites.

   • Old Spanish Lighthouse on Naburot Island -- A remnant of the colonial era.

The Gigantes are also classified as a high urgent conservation priority under the Philippine Biodiversity Conservation Priority-Setting Program (PBCPP). They are home to endemic species, including the Gekkonid Lizard (Gekko gigante) and the Island Forest Frog (Platymantis insulatus) (Foundation for the Philippine Environment).

Sicogon Island: The Comeback Story

Sicogon Island, named after the abundant cogon grass found on its shores, was a premier tourist destination in the 1970s and 1980s. The high-end "Sicogon Island Resort" attracted international visitors with its crystal-clear waters and white sand beaches lined with coconut trees. However, the turbulence of the Marcos-era martial law stalled development, and the island's popularity faded as nearby Boracay rose to international fame.

In recent years, Sicogon has been making a comeback. Ayala Land entered a joint venture to develop portions of the island for tourism, and in 2022, a law was signed designating Sicogon Island as a wildlife sanctuary. The island also boasts its own airport -- the Sicogon Airport -- the first and only airport in Carles and Northern Iloilo, with domestic flights to and from Manila.

Tourism Infrastructure and Community Involvement

At Bancal Port, the Municipal Tourism Center serves as a one-stop shop for tourist assistance, boat reservations, registration, and payments. The center also regulates rates and accredits boats for Gigantes tours. Multiple beach resorts dot the mainland coast -- in Barangay Guinticgan, Barosbos, Punta, and Bancal -- ranging from simple nipa hut homestays to more developed facilities like Blue Lagoon Beach Resort, Shangrila Beach Resort, and Palm Garden Beach Resort.

VIII. Politics: Dynasties, Democracy, and Development

The Spanish and American Political Foundations

Political life in Carles began under the Spanish system of gobernadorcillos (local chief executives), with Alejandro Buaya serving as the first in 1862. Under the Maura Law of 1892, the position transitioned to the elected Municipal Captain (Capitan Municipal), with Luceno Golingan as the first. By November 1898, the title shifted to Presidente Local during the brief Philippine Republic era. After the restoration of municipal status in 1920, Federico Ramos became the first Municipal President under American administration.

The Mayors of Carles

According to All About Carles, the succession of mayors since the American period reads as follows:

List of Municipal Mayor's 

1. Federico Ramos (1st Municipal President) – 1920

2. Andres Betita – 1921-1924

3. Geminiano Diaz – 1925-1928 & 1931-1934

4. Enrico Ilanga – 1934-1944

5. Pacifico Caboyoc – 1944-1947

6. Alexander Betita – 1947-1959 & 1963-1970

7. Alfredo Alava Sr. – 1959-1963 & 1970-1986

8. Cesar Betita – 1986-2000

9. Felipe Bernal Jr. – 2000-2007

10. Arnold Betita (later Arnold T. Betita II) – 2007-2025

The Betita Political Legacy

One cannot discuss Carles politics without noting the prominence of the Betita family. From Andres Betita in the 1920s, to Alexander Betita spanning the post-war decades, to Cesar Betita during the post-EDSA era, and most recently Arnold T. Betita II who served as mayor from 2007 until 2025, the Betita surname is woven into the political fabric of Carles. This pattern mirrors the broader phenomenon of political dynasties across Iloilo Province, as documented by Panay News.

2025 Elections: A New Chapter

The 2025 midterm elections brought a shift. According to a Facebook post from the Iloilo Provincial Government, the newly elected officials of Carles are Mayor Reggie A. Virtucio and Vice Mayor Ben Patron, marking the first time in decades that a non-Betita occupies the mayoral seat. Carles falls under Iloilo's 5th Congressional District, currently represented by Binky April M. Tupas of the Lakas-CMD party.

Political Infrastructure and Governance

Carles operates under the Sangguniang Bayan (municipal council) system. As of the 2024 data, the municipality has 46,777 registered voters. The municipal government has been active in disaster preparedness (post-Haiyan), fisheries regulation (in coordination with BFAR), tourism development (through the provincial "Turista sa Barangay" program under Governor Arthur Defensor Jr.), and infrastructure improvement -- including roads, fish ports, and school buildings.

IX. Looking Ahead: Challenges and Promise

Carles stands at a crossroads. Its 35.86% poverty incidence (2021) remains a stubborn challenge, even as total municipal revenue approaches PHP 300 million. The tension between commercial fishing and marine conservation will only intensify as climate change and overfishing pressure the Visayan Sea. Tourism brings economic opportunity, but also the risk of environmental degradation -- a lesson already learned by other Philippine island destinations.

Yet the story of Carles has always been one of resilience: from the courage of Francisco Arriola at Punta Bulakawe, to the 16-year fight to reclaim municipal status, to the community's recovery from Typhoon Haiyan. With the Gigantes Islands gaining national and international recognition, Sicogon Island undergoing a renaissance, and a new generation of leaders taking the helm, the "True Alaska of the Philippines" is poised for its most dynamic chapter yet.

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Sources: Wikipedia - Carles, Iloilo, Discover Carles, All About Carles Iloilo blog, PeoPlaid, All About Carles - Mayors, Iloilo Provincial Government, Daily Guardian, She Mae Gomez - Pangisda Festival, Panay News, Tus Gigantes, Foundation for the Philippine Environment